Photo by Mercedesfromtheeitghties

The first thing you need to know about heirloom or heritage plants is that they’re always open-pollinated. This means that the seeds from that plant’s fruit can be saved, replanted and the resulting plant (and fruit) will be a replica of the parent. It’s great news for both home gardeners and farmers because this means that potentially, the gardener never has to purchase those particular seeds again.

But, what makes a vegetable (or flower or fruit) variety an “heirloom”. It actually depends on whom you ask. Heirlooms were brought to America by immigrants world-wide. Rich with culture, many of these family heirlooms have wonderful stories attached to them. They’re favorite family vegetables whose seeds had been saved and passed down from generation to generation.

Many people consider that any variety that has a generational history — and a story– to be called an heirloom. Some don’t label an open-pollinated plant an heirloom unless it can be traced back 100 years. Although there’s no “officially-official” standard for heirlooms, today most gardeners agree that an open-pollinated plant that’s been handed down through families for 50 years is an heirloom variety.

Photo by Hello-Julie

What Can Heirloom Plants Offer The Home Gardener?

Now that we’ve talked about what heirlooms are, let’s explore what heirlooms can do.

• Fantastic flavor – Of course, any vine-ripe vegetable grown in the home garden (hybrids included) beats store-bought vegetables any day of thee week. Still, most heirlooms have a flavor factor that the prolific hybrids simply can’t match. These food plants were handed down generation after generation were selected and grown expressly for taste. Commercial hybrids are created for uniformity in color, shape, and size. As well as for yield, transporting abilities, and the ease of machine-harvesting. This isn’t to say that there aren’t delicious hybrids — there certainly are. But heirlooms come in a vast sea of varieties (and therefore, flavors) to please the palate.

• Adaptability – Heirloom plants have an inherent ability to adapt naturally to their environment. This includes acclimating to the soil they’re planted in and as well as the specific climate. Historically, as vegetable varieties adjusted to their environments they also developed resistances to local pests and diseases. In other words, there were strong, viable plants suited to every area. Because these plants evolved naturally, nothing was mechanically altered (and therefore given up) and their fruit was able to retain their delicious flavors.

• Control – Food is a basic human necessity and he who controls the seed controls the food supply. Unfortunately, five companies control all of out commercial seed world-wide. They can do this because they literally own the seed. Heirlooms are owned by no one — and everyone. They give you control over how your food is grown, what’s put on it, and which vegetable types you’ll grow.

• Links to Our Heritage – Of course, heirlooms weren’t always called “heirlooms”. In fact, the term “heirloom” wasn’t even used until the 1980′s! They were those traditional vegetables grown in gardens everywhere. They were the staples of life. Some of the heirlooms that have been preserved by family seed-saving go as far back as 2000 years or more. Connected to those seeds is the history of our ancestors and who they were; giving us a basic definition of who we are. In a nutshell, seeds are a living heritage for people. We can hand down antique furniture, jewelry, and paintings, but none of these are living things. Along with great stories come the variety names. Monikers such as Beaver Dam, Moon & Stars, and Lady Godiva pumpkins, Rattlesnake and Dragon Tongue beans, Tall Telephone peas, Mascara and Drunken Woman, Frizzy-Headed lettuce always bring a smile…and questions.

By the way, the above characteristics belong to the open-pollinated veggies that aren’t necessarily considered heirlooms. They just may not have the extensive history as their counterparts.

Photo by kckellner

The impact that color has on the senses is undeniable. Color affects the mood of the garden, and affects the people who view it. Many of us are working with gardens on the smaller side. But, color principles are basically the same; no matter what size the garden. The first thing to keep in mind is that anything you want in color will benefit from you taking a glance or two at the color wheel.

Second, repetition creates unity throughout the garden — and the eyes love unity.One way to create unity is to repeat your colors in order to tie the garden-picture together. So, how many plants should you use per variety? The easiest technique is to apply the “Rule of Odd Numbers.” Plants look the most natural when planted in odd numbers, such as three, and five.

Photo by Tom Bech

Photo by Renee’s Garden

There are as many ways to create seed and plant markers as there are gardeners. Basic techniques such as Popsicle sticks or names painted on rocks are one of the easiest ways to go. But my favorite way to label seeds in my garden is to sue the seed packets themselves.

The first reason that I like to use them as markers is because they’re lovely looking in the garden and to be honest, while I adore anything garden “functional”, my girlie-heart yearns for “pretty”, too. While I don’t purchase seed packets for their beauty alone, there are companies that put that little extra something in their seed packets.  Botanical Interests, Renee’s Garden, Peaceful Valley, and  BBB Seed immediately come to mind.

Photo by Peaceful Valley

Probably the best reason to use the seed packets as markers is that you always have the seed specifics on the variety, growing directions, and plant picture right where you need them most — next to the plants that you’re tending. Of course you can’t just leave the seed packet willy-nilly in the sun, rain, and wind as they tend to disintegrate or become lunch for a passing snail or slug.

To protect the packets from the elements, I’ve been known to take them to a friend’s house who has a little laminating machine. One they’re laminated, tape or hot glue a craft stick to the back of the marker and sink it into the soil. Instant character for your garden even before the seed germinate!

Photo by BBB Seed

If you don’t have access to a laminating machine, purchase some clear contact paper, measure your packet and cut a piece that’s 1/4 of an inch bigger around all sides to make a good seal. Lamination will be firmer than the contact paper, but you’d be amazed at how well it’ll hold up.

In place of taping or gluing a craft stick to the back of your marker, hit up some garage sales and find some old silverware. Then just weave your protected packet through the tines of the fork.

Photo by Le Petite Poulailler

Photo by The Bitten Word

As the coldest months of the year set in, the growing season is considered either behind us or ahead of us. Either way, our landscapes look naked after the flowers of spring, summer, and fall hang their dresses up for the winter.  Of course, the plants that live inside our homes are tickled pink to have the gardener’s attention all to themselves.

I actually look forward to spending quality time with my houseplants along with the bulbs that I’ve forced to bloom while most flowering plants are outdoors sleeping. If you’ve conjured up an image of a non-descript plastic post holding a single amaryllis bloom, you’re missing the big picture. There are endless possibilities for creativity with flowering bulbs.

Amaryllis photo by The Greenery Nursery

Great bulbs for forcing indoors

First of all, don’t stop at the typical amaryllis bulb that all the big box stores are promoting at this time. Notice that I’m not saying don’t purchase the amaryllis; just don’t stop there.

• Daffodils
• Hyacinths
• Amaryllis
• Crocus
• Grape hyacinths
• Easter lilies
• Paperwhites
• Snowdrops
• Dwarf iris
• Striped squall
• Freesia

Some of these bulbs varieties will need some chilling before being planted and some will not. Be sure to do a little research on those that you’d like to force indoors. Also, when you purchase them ask if they’ve been pre-chilled.

If you’re partial to elegant decor, stick with a single bulb variety (in one or two colors) and a beautiful container. Mixing bulb varieties either with each other or other types of plants offers a more relaxed display, but just as fun and surprising.

Photo by James Qualtrough

Creative Containers for Indoor Bulbs

Second, don’t ever settle for the plastic pots! You can do better than that every time. Think about the decor and feel of the room where the display will be placed and stick with that style, you can’t go wrong. Keep an eye out for containers of unusual shapes and sizes.

• Terra Cotta pots
• Glazed pots
• Baskets
• Wood boxes
• Copper tubs
• Wardian Cases (Victorian terrariums)
• Glass Containers or bowls
• Vases

Photo by Charles D P Miller

Groundcover for Indoor Garden Displays

Covering any bare soil (if you’re planting in soil) puts a finishing touch on any indoor bulb display. You can use “inanimate mulches” such as dried moss or pebbles, or you use a “living mulch” such as grass.

• Colorful glass stones
• Pea gravel or pebbles
• Glass mulch
• Tiny sea shells
• Sphagnum Moss
• Dried green moss
• Grass
• Living moss
• Baby tears
• ‘Elfin’ thyme

Photo by Pizzodisevo

You can also try staggering the blooms for a longer display buy planting several bulbs into the container. One week later, add several more bulbs and finish planting the container. One of my favorite pairings is to plant miniature daffodils and dwarf iris bulbs into a long, rectangular container. I then plant grass seed over the entire surface. The planting resembles bulbs coming up in a lawn and is always a conversation piece. And yes, I end up having to use scissors to “cut” the grass on occasion!

Here’s a garden craft that’s perfect for kids even smack dab in the middle of winter! Because it’s hand’s on, crafty, and imaginative, this project is always a hit with my 4H kids. It also just happens to introduce a mini-science lesson on condensation and “rain”, it’s popular with parents and teachers.

Plus the earth gives it a thumb’s up because we’re re-purposing soda bottles instead of tossing them into the landfill (or using energy to recycle them), the earth gives these little gardens a thumb’s up, as well.

Soda Bottle Terrarium Supplies:

• 1 or 2 very small house plants. Depending on what you find in your area there may only be room for one plant and that’s okay. You can add an embellishment or two such as a plastic animal or colorful rocks for a little pizzazz.
• 1 (2-liter) soda bottle with the cap
• Scissors
• Small stones or pebbles to allow extra water to flow down to the bottom so it doesn’t rot roots or waterlog the plants.
• Potting or houseplant soil
• Spaghnum moss or Spanish moss – this will act as a screen so the soil won’t settle into the rocks beneath as the water flows through. This is also the finishing touch for the top of the soil after planting.
• Activated charcoal – acts as a filter that purifies the water as it cycles up and down the terrarium (check the pet aisle at a local store).
• Little plastic animals or other small-scale decorations such as colorful stones (optional)

Build YourTerrarium:

1.    A parent needs to cut off the bottom of the soda bottle at about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom. Set the top aside.

2.    Put a handful of stones at the bottom of the bottle (1-2 “ deep).

3.    Sprinkle some charcoal over the pebbles. Just enough to cover the stones is fine.

4.    Add some moss — just enough to cover the charcoal.

5.    Next add a little potting soil. How much will depend on how much soil is in the container that your little plant came in.

6.    Now, add your plant (s). Use the potting soil that you purchased to fill in the rest of the space in the container.

7.    For a finished look, add some moss on top of the soil and between the plants.

8.    Place little animals or other decoration around the plant(s) at this point.

9.    Put the soda bottle/terrarium lid over the top, squeezing the bottom so the sides are tucked into the top piece. You may need to, cut a couple of slices onto the edge of the bottom piece to help the lid go on.

10.    Remove the top and gently water the plants until everything seems moist, but not sopping or the roots will rot. Secure the top back to the bottom.

As condensation builds up, remove the bottle cap for ventilation. Every once in a while remove the entire top to let the plants enjoy some great air circulation. We found that our plants grew so well, they we had to leave the top off permanently so the leaves had room.

I’ll tell you up front that you might as well purchase some extra supplies for the next one. And there will be a next one. After enjoying the process of making soda bottle terrariums with your kids, you’ll be compelled to make a few of your own.

Of course, you don’t have to stick with the soda bottles. Peruse garage sales or your own attic and bring new life to a glass bowl or vase. Take the project further by coming yup with a theme such as carnivorous plants, a living moss garden, an orchid collection, or colors that match your living room.

Photo by Sumtinelse

This indoor miniature garden project is one of the easiest you’ll ever put together as well as one of the prettiest and most interesting. Once you have the materials together, it’ll take just a couple of minutes to bring your indoor garden to life. Before we talk about how to put it together, let’s talk about which plants you may want to use.

Of course you can use any houseplant that strikes your fancy. But many tropical plants (such as ferns) don’t bloom and others have flowers of little significance. Enter African violets (Saintpaulia)– they’re one of my favorite houseplants. African violets are easy to care for, come on rich colors, and don’t get too large. Maybe one of the best things about them is that it takes very little encouragement for them to bloom over and over again through the years.

For these reasons, I generally like them for this indoor bird bath project. However, this is one of the easiest gardens in the world to manipulate, so feel free to change it up for an occasion such as a holiday or other event. For instance, small poinsettias or cyclamen would make perfect stand-ins for Christmas, just as daffodils or crocus make for excellent spring displays. For an elegant feel, try using orchid varieties.

What you’ll need:

• Bird bath — deeper is better

• 5-8  4″ potted plants — enough to basically fill in the birdbath

• Any bagged decorative green moss (such a spagnum)

• *Potting soil — this is optional

Photo by Tinyfroglet

Leaving them in their plastic containers, arrange the 4″ potted plants in the bird bath. If you’d like the center plant to be raised up to add depth, you can turn an empty 4″ container upside down and set the center plant on top of it. If that looks too high compared to the other plants, you may have to find something a little shorter.

At this point you can simply fill in the empty space between the potted plants with the green moss, or you could add soil in between the pots before adding the moss if it looks more natural for your display. This will depend on which plants you choose to use at the time.

Photo by Blumenbiene

Notice that you aren’t actually planting them into the bird bath its self, although you can do this if you fill the bath with potting soil first. The beauty of this project is that it can be rearranged from time to time for different effects. If you do choose to plant directly into the bath, be careful not to over-water your display or the roots will rot.

Quick Tip: If you’re using African violets be aware that they don’t like water on their leaves. So be sure to water them directly onto the soil, underneath the foliage. You could also take them from the display and let them sit in a sink partially filled with warm water so they can take their water up through the holes in the bottom of their container.

Many gardeners know that the best way to improve the quality of their soil is with compost. Help them turn their yard debris and kitchen scraps into rich compost with a spinning composter. These bins tumble the organic matter, increasing the rate of decomposition, decreasing the time it takes to break down from waste into rich, organic mulch.

Home Depot 60 Gallon Compost Tumbler
Retail Price: $98.00 

What gardener couldn’t use at least one more pair of gloves? Serious gardeners need serious gloves. The Bionic Women’s Gardening gloves fit the bill, they have a slender cut to fit smaller hands and have cuffs to keep the dirt out of your hand. These gloves are designed to be close fitting to avoid that bulky, clumsy feel so many of us are used to with other work gloves.

Do you have a slightly disorganized gardener on your holiday gift list? This magnetic board and tool set will not only give your gardener friend all of their basic tool needs, but a convenient and efficient way to store them.

StuckOnTools
Price: $59.95

Is there a gardener who has complained about how they love making their own compost, but hate the hassle of taking out kitchen scraps after every meal? This gorgeous Tuscan Compost Crock is a lovely solution to a messy problem. It’s dishwasher safe and can sit on the counter and no one would suspect it holds kitchen waste. Biobags make clean up an earth-friendly snap.

Gardeners.com Tuscan Crock
Price: $34.95

Seed bombs make a perfect stocking stuffer for the your favorite gardener. Your gardening friend can simply toss these chunks of seed and soil to spread wildflowers native to their region.

Anthropologie Seed Bombs
Price: $6.00

Have a quirky gardener on your list? How about give them the chance to try to their hand at mushroom farming. This interesting mushroom starter kit will help the gardener on your list decide if they’d like to delve into world of raising edible fungi.

Mushroom Growing Kit from Uncommon Goods
Price: $19.95

Do you have a dedicated container gardener on your list? They would love a potting bench to use as an outdoor workspace. Your gardener will appreciate having a space to work with their potted plants at a comfortable height, without lugging the mess indoors.

Potting Bench from Meijer
Price: $99.75

Photo Credit:msahades

Generally speaking, the term “bulb” is tossed around loosely, which is okay with me and most other gardeners. Still, there’s some merit in at least knowing what we’re referring to when we talk about planting bulbs or bulbous-like structures. You may, indeed, have true bulbs if you have tulips. But you might just as easily be tubers if they’re caladiums, or corms if you have begonias.

In horticultural terms, these bulbous-type structures may be different, but they all work under the same basic principle: They’re underground, food-storing structures that keep plants alive with food reserves bundled inside. Depending on the bulb type, there are some differences in how they’re planted and preserved from one season to the next. For now, let’s talk about bulbs that belong to the tender group.

Photo Credit: pissodisevo

Tender bulbs include dahlia, gladiola, crocus, caladium, cannas, anemone, tuberous begonia, and freesia. In regions that see mild winters, these plants can over-winter where they’re planted. But in regions that have freezing winters (north of zone 9), you’re better off lifting them from the soil and storing to protect them from the onslaught of winter.

Photo Credit: nestmaker

Over-wintering bulbs by lifting and storing is a simple task as long as you know where they are in your yard or garden! Before disturbing them, let the foliage die back as much as possible (turned mostly brown or withered). Then slide a garden fork under them, and gently lift them from the soil.

Cut the rest of the foliage off between 2″-6″ and don’t bother washing them off. Simply brush off the loose soil and lay them out in a cool, dry place for a week to ten days. They need to be dry before storing as they’ll rot if they’re moist. If you can have them under a fan during this time — all the better.

Photo Credit: Jeff Tidwell

At this point, some gardeners choose to dust their bulbs with a fungicide and some forgo the practice. Next, place them in an open container such as a wood crate, basket, or netted bag that’s filled with dry peat moss, wood shavings, or another appropriate dry material. Don’t forget to label the bulb containers by their variety (if you know) and their color.

Photo Credit: haversack

Keep them in a cool (50-55 degrees) and well-ventilated place until spring arrives and it’s time to replant. You’ll want to check on your bulbs periodically during the winter to make sure they’re not rotting, If you find a few that are rotted or damaged, throw them away. You may want to adjust your storing technique at this time, perhaps by moving the storage location if there’s too much humidity.

By the way, if you have flower bulbs planted in containers, most do quite well if simply stop watering them and move the entire container to a cool, dry location for the winter.

Every winter I end up suggesting somewhere or another that January is a great time to start a garden journal or notebook to record everything during the entire primary growing season. The new year is an obvious place to start one not only because it’s the beginning of the calendar year, but because it also happens to be the pre-garden season.

The records of what you were planning on growing in the garden, and where, and when you were going plant them is the beginning of a personalized custom book custom made for you. At first, garden journals may seem like extra nit-picky work at a time when your garden needs you most. But there are some excellent reasons for taking a little extra time to jot down some important notes. After a couple of years, your garden journal will become a valuable personalized tool for the future.

The single most helpful thing in a garden journal are the dates that you write down. It might be the date you planted the perennial or the date you planted tomato seeds or harvested fruit. But the dates are going to be your biggest helpful hint for planning next year’s garden. Especially if you’re a vegetable gardener, dates will also tell you if you’ve chosen the right vegetable variety for your growing zone.

The description of the plant varieties are the next most helpful information. What they looked like (pretty or not)? Difficult to grow or laid-back ? Too big? Too small or perfect for your yard? In the case of edible plants: How was the flavor? The yield? Were they an easy target for disease or pests? The answers will tell you if you should re-plant those varieties or try new something new.

Your journal should be scribbled from time-to-time especially during specific times for plants. When plants started blooming and when they stopped. When fruit showed up on the vine, when it was harvested and when it stopped showing up. When tree leaves unfolded and when the leaves fell off. If you’re looking to have continuous bloom in the garden, greenery, or more vegetables, this is the information you’ll need to purchase the right plants to fill in the gap.

You may have notes that remind you about which plant pests you battled so you’re prepared for it next year such as gopher, rabbits, or snails. These notes can remind you which perennials you already divided and where those new bulbs are located. If you were doing a lot of hand watering, you’ll be reminded to add a drip system or soaker hose to a certain spot in the yard.

Keep notes such as the surprising height of a tree that you thought was a “dwarf” variety for future reference. Use the old-fashioned cut and paste method of pictures of things you dream of doing in your future garden. Can you incorporate some of those ideas in the coming season?

If you used illustrations — and I certainly hope that you did — in your journal, they can potentially help you remember the variety, color, and placement of the plants you grew last season — even as they’re dormant now. If you used a plain pencil — use colored ones next time it makes a beautiful (and informational) difference.

Hopefully you added paper pocket dividers to your journal. If so, check there for pictures, receipts, and seed packets that offer clues to the plants that you started from seed and if they were successful for you. The pictures will also jog your memory on how the plants grew and looked in the place where you planted them.

Graph or plain paper with simple drawings of the placements of plants in your yard and garden can be a huge help for planning a better garden.  Did those plants fill in well? Or did they grow a bit too big? Were they getting enough water in those places or too little? Plant placement drawings can help you decide if you need to add more plants, more color, or more balance.

After you’ve made notes, pictures, drawings, clippings, and extra information to your journal pages, you’ll notice that your garden journal isn’t just about your garden. It becomes a timeline of the garden part of your life. It keeps the memories of what was important to you for each passing gardening year.

Photo of journal by WHSKR
Photo of stacked journals by Julie@Organikal
Photo of lady in garden by Mccheek
Photo of peppers by Muffet
Photo of hose by Analikewoahh
Photo of pencils by Horia Varlan

Fall Gardening Cleanup

To make sure that your landscaping remains fresh looking, cleanup in the fall is really important. Sometimes however, cleanup can see overwhelming, so I’ve divided your landscaping into three categories for you. Try tackling each category one weekend or two at a time.

• Lawn: 4 to 6 weeks before the first freeze is the ideal time to over-seed your lawn if needed. Over-seeding in the fall allows your grass to build a solid root before the heat of summer hits. Also remember to prevent disease and to promote winter growth keep your leaves picked up by using your lawn mower, a leaf blower or a by using a good old fashioned rake. I personally recommend a rake as it can serve two purposes, cleaning up leaves and dethatching your lawn.
• Garden Beds: A lot of clean up should happen in your garden beds in fall. First you need to remove all summer annuals, trim back all of your perennials, and trim and shape your bushes. Secondly you need to be sure to add mulch at least one inch deep to protect the roots of your plants and bushes from cold and disease.
• Trees: Like the bushes in your garden beds, it is necessary in fall to prune dead wood, low lying branches that would touch the ground if covered in rain or snow, and remove sprouts that appear at the base of your trees.

Finally when it comes to clean up and keeping your landscaping looking healthy you need to remember one critical thing.

You need to keep watering.

Watering is very important as most winter damage to trees, shrubs, etc. comes from their inability to draw water from the frozen ground. By keeping these items watered in the fall you are helping your landscape survive the harshest of winter months.

Fall Curb Appeal Decorating

Once clean up has been taken care of, you may be satisfied with what the curb appeal of your home, but to add that extra sparkle here are a few easy ideas for outdoor fall decor:

• Use supplies gleaned from clean up. Branches trimmed from your trees, pine cones from previous years, and even carefully dried flowers and leaves can be used to create beautiful arrangements to decorate your front door or entry way.
• Fall is pumpkin patch time. Have a fun day at the pumpkin patch and scatter your pumpkins throughout your landscaping for a burst of beautiful fall color. Read decorating with pumpkins for more ideas.
• Use your now empty flower pots and containers to create lovely displays. Stack a few pumpkins in them to create a tall splash of orange. Branches painted or unpainted and decorated with white or orange twinkly lights and/or pine cones also can be used to create arrangements to be placed throughout your landscaping and don’t forget fall flowers.

What ever you choose to do to add that extra oomph to your curb appeal remember that thinking outside of the box can often save you time and money. Try to include the items that remind you of the beauty of fall. And most importantly have fun creating looks that represent you and your family the most.

Leaf Image Credit:  tehsuck
Pumpkin & Flower Image Credit: hello-julie

Planting a container-grown rose bush is easy to do as long as you’re capable of digging a hole. If you’re not up to the task, have a helper do the digging for you. Before getting started, do a little research on the rose that you purchased. Many roses need full sun to thrive, but some roses will do quite well in light shade.

Roses that need protection from cold and wind can be planted near walls or other tall structures which act as a wind barrier. Remember, finding the right location in your yard or garden is the most important step, so know what your specific rose variety requires.

What You’ll Need:

• Potted rose bush
• Shovel
• Long, straight stick

*Thoroughly water the rose bush in its container the day before planting. This step will loosen the soil in the pot, moisten the roots, as well as hydrate the plant.

Dig a hole that’s a little wider than the rose bush container. The sides of the hole should be as deep as the container. But, you want to have a firm mound of soil in the bottom center of the hole for the plant to sit on.

To remove the rose from its container, pick up the entire pot and press the sides together moving your hands all the way around the sides and pressing as you go. You could also carefully lay the container on its side and roll it while pressing gently on the sides, as well. Holding onto the base of the plant (not the top branches), slide the bush out of the container.

Historically, people have used the natural world as symbols to communicate to their feelings or intentions towards others. Flowers in particular, were a popular way to send messages to friends, family, and would-be lovers. Although symbolic associations were used much earlier, the Victorian era is particularly associated with assigning meaning to flowers and herbs.

One of the most popular lists of flowers with meanings is the “birth month” flowers. Each month of the year has been assigned a flower (or more) which represent it and those that are born in that month.

The next time you send birthday flowers, personalize them by adding the recipient’s birth month flower to the bouquet. A particularly nice touch to celebrate the birth of a new baby is to send a birth flower bouquet to the new parents. Be sure to tuck in the special meaning behind the blooms!

Birth Month Flowers

• January: Carnation — love, purity, beauty, gratitude, pride, distinction, admiration, distinction, and fascination, Snowdrop — consolation, devotion, and fascination

• February: Iris — friendship, hope, wisdom, peace of mind, valor, faith, and valor, Violet — faithfulness, virtue, and modesty

• March: Daffodil (Jonquil) — rebirth, friendship, faithfulness, chivalry, respect, hope, modesty, unrequited love, regard, new beginnings

• April: Daisy – innocence, purity, love, bliss, I’ll never tell, and good fortune, Sweet Pea — blissful pleasure, innocence, purity, good-bye,

• May: Lily or Lily of the Valley — sweetness, beauty, majesty, purity, and humility

• June: Rose — Love, beauty, passion, admiration, perfection, gratitude, and sympathy, Honeysuckle — love and affection

• July: Larkspur (Delphinium) — lightness, open heart, laughter, and ardent attachment

• August: Gladiolus — character strength, generosity, sincerity, and moral integrity

• September: Aster — faith, love, valor, afterthought, wisdom, light, and elegance, Morning Glory — Talisman of love and daintiness

• October: Marigold (Calendula) – grace, joy, modesty, and sacred affection

• November: Chrysanthemum – loveliness, happiness, cheerfulness, wealth, optimism, rest, and abundance

• December: Holly – good wishes and foresight, Paperwhites (Narcissus) – egotism, formality, and sweet, Poinsettia – success, good cheer, celebration, and  reassurance

Violet photo by knottyboy

Daisy photo by kkimpel

There are two kinds of gardeners: those who put their gardens to bed in the winter and those who try to figure out what they can grow in the lower temperatures. For many years I could be found cleaning my shovel, rakes, and pruners to store them away for the winter. I also added compost and/or mulch to my beds for their long winter’s nap.

And then it dawned on me: broccoli hates high temps. Okay, that might not be the most exciting “A-ha!” moment, but there it was. I have put the cool weather to work for me ever since then. In fact, I’ve found that fall planting can be easier than spring and summer gardening because there are less pests to contend with and certainly less weeds.

In many regions cool-season crops can be grown during two seasons: spring and fall. They need temperatures to hang around 40 to 60 degrees. After you’ve experimented a season or three, you may find that your cool-weather lovers prefer one season to another in your zone.

Where I was in the San Francisco Bay Area, I had better luck with cilantro and broccoli not bolting (producing seed heads which signals the plant to stop producing) when I planted them at the end of summer as a fall crop. I could have certainly planted them in the late winter/early spring, but when Bay Area weather turns warm it usually does so with a vengeance, and I find that both of these crops bolt quickly in the spring.

Cool-season vegetables include the following:

• Carrots
• Endive
• Cauliflower
• Kohlrabi
• Leeks
• Cabbage
• Spinach
• Lettuce
• Swiss chard
• Collard Greens
• Peas
• Beets
• Radicchio
• Endive
• Radish
• Turnips
• Cilantro
• Kale
• Brussels sprouts
• Rhubarb
• Asparagus

Some varieties tolerate frost quite well, so not all cool-season vegetables are just for spring and fall. Some, like broccoli and Brussels sprouts, and collard greens can grow well into — and even through — the winter, with a little help from cold frames, hoop houses, and mulch.

Broccoli photo by Ting Chen

Cabbage photo by Jasmine & Roses

Cauliflower photo by Muffet

Carrots photo by color line

One of many fall flowers to add to autumn container arrangements!

Fall is certainly not the end of the growing season, and with back-to-school friends, fall parties and Halloween all still before us, you want your containers and windows boxes to look fresh and exciting.

Here are some fabulous flowers and plants to add to your garden landscape for autumn container delight.

Click here to view the embedded video.

These are the five fall flowers and plants to add for colorful autumn containers for fall arrangements in your landscape!

Pansies – Large, colorful flowers that won’t grow too tall. Perfect for lining the edges of your containers.

Kale – An autumn foliage plant, this cool-weather vegetable will grow straight through the frost!

Mums or Chrysanthemums – Lots of choices in color and flower style, these fall-blooming flowers are available in rust, bronze, orange, purple, red, pink and more.

Asters – Usually these fall-flowering plants coming in purple or pink and have daisy-like flowers that complement the look of chrysanthemums.

Fall Accents – I love the use of these decorative mini-pumpkins and gourds as fall season accents within the containers. I have seen the brightly colored “Indian corn” used in similar fashion and it can create a lot of interest.

Dress up your fall garden with one or more of these five fall container elements. Feel free to mix-and-match and be as creative as you want!

What is your favorite fall container look? Share with us in the comments, or come to the forums and show us a picture of how your fall containers turned out!

One of the many joys of gardening is being able to share plants from your garden with a friend. Passing plants along to other gardeners has been a tradition since planting gardens began.

One of the easiest ways to share a your favorites is to take softwood cuttings from perennial shrubs or climbing plants. Otherwise known as “slips”, softwood cuttings are one of the easiest from of propagation.  While you’re creating new plants for your friends, why not take a few for yourself and add to your own garden, as well?

What you’ll need:

• 2-3 inch long cuttings from the tips of the plant (young foliage)
• 4 inch clean containers
• sandy potting soil that had been dampened thoroughly
• pencil
• Plastic bag
• Popsicle sticks (or long twigs)
• Scotch tape
• *rooting hormone
• *gloves

*Optional

How to propagate plants from cuttings:

1. First, you’ll want to prepare the new plants’ temporary home by filling the 4 inch containers with the dampened potting soil.

2. Snip a cutting off of an older plant just below a node, which is the leaf “joint” where it attaches to the plant stem. You’ll want 2 or 3 nodes on the cutting.

3. Take the cuttings and clip off any flowers or buds. Then clip off the leaves at the bottom of the cutting so that the leaf node is left exposed. There will probably be just a single pair of leaves at the top.

4. Make a hole in the potting soil with the pencil – you don’t want to shove the soft stem into the soil.

5. There are two ways to go about the next step. The first, is to put on gloves then dip the bottom of the cutting (including the nodes) into a powdered or liquid hormone and then place it into the potting soil. This gives the cutting a greater chance at successful rooting. That said, many cuttings will grow roots even without using the hormone. For that matter, many plant species will root in plain water!)

So, this part is up to you. If you do choose to use the hormone, please put gloves on beforehand. The 4″ container can start more than one cutting at a time, so feel free to place 3 or 4 in the pot.

6. Put the cuttings into the soil and press the soil up around them. Make sure the places where you cut off the lower leaves (node) is buried.

7. To keep the cuttings moist while they grow roots, place a plastic (polyethylene) bag over the entire container and secure it around the container edge with tape. To keep the bag from touching the cuttings, you may want to use a couple of Popsicle sticks or small branches (that are a little taller than the slips) and stick them into the soil before covering with the plastic.

8. Keep them in a warm place, but shaded from any direct sun. When you see new growth on the cuttings, make some slices with scissors into the plastic as air vents for a few days. If the soil begins to dry out, gently add a little water using. Remove the bag completely after several days of having vents.

When you see more growth, use a spoon to scoop under the cuttings and place each little plant into its own container. Pass them out to friends, family, new neighbors as a welcome — don’t forget to keep a few for yourself!

Rooting hormone can be a gardener’s best friend, but it’s also a hazardous material. Please read the manufacturer’s directions before opening the container and always use gloves when handling the hormone. Keep out of the reach of children. If you’d rather not have this type of product in your home, try the alternative methods such as rooting the cutting in a planting media, or try it in plain water.

Photo by Kirsty Hall

“Everlastings” is a broad term used for any flowers, seed pods, or foliage that can be dried and used in permanent arrangements, potpourri, holiday gifts, and wreath making. Everlastings from both annual and perennial plants tend to not only hold their shape indefinitely, but their color tends to remain attractive, as well. Most everlastings are just as lovely as a cut flower as they are dried. Below are the top five everlasting annual plants to try in your garden.

1. Bells-of-Ireland (Moluccella laevis)

These unique annuals are as interesting in the garden as they are in dried arrangements. Bells-of-Ireland may look as if they’re covered in green, cup-shaped blossoms. But, to see the true flowers you’ll have to look closer. What we’re admiring as “flowers” on this plant are actually the calyxes around the dainty, white flowers.

The easiest way to grow Bells-of-Ireland is to sow seeds directly into the garden a few weeks before your last frost date in zones with cold winters. Cold temperatures are important to this plant because the seeds have to go through a chilling period in order to germinate. So, if you live in a climate that has mild winters, sow the seeds late in the fall or keep them in your refrigerator for two weeks before planting them. Be patient, the seeds can take a month to germinate.

2. Strawflowers (Helichrysum bracteatum or Bracteantha bracteata )

Probably the most well-known of all the everlastings, strawflowers are annuals that come in a wide array of bright colors. What looks and sounds like crinkly-paper flower petals are really modified leaves called bracts. The very center of the blossom is where you’ll find the true flowers.

Strawflowers have a lot to offer the gardeners as they bloom reliably from summer until a hard frost; and then continue to share their blooms as dried flowers. Most strawflower varieties grow anywhere from 12″ to 36′ tall; with the taller varieties requiring staking.

3. Globe Amaranth (Gomphrena globosa)

Globe amaranth comes in both annual and perennial varieties but are more often used as annuals than not. Again, the blossom parts that attract us are actually bracts, not the true flowers. They have an oval, clover-shaped head that come in red, pink, orange, white, and purple. Those of you blessed with good vision will notice the tiny white or yellow flowers poking out between the bright bracts.

In fact, you may see the true flowers best on the variety ‘Strawberry Fields’. This is because the little yellow flowers stand out against the red bracts and look like the seeds on a strawberry. Although Globe amaranth is usually grown in the full sun, they’ll do just finer in areas with part shade.

4. Love-in-a-mist or Devil-in-a-Bush (Nigella damascena)

A beautiful cottage plant, Love-in-a-Mist has “ruffles” of fern-like foliage around its delicate petals. This thin foliage makes it look as if you’re looking through the flowers. Nigella blooms in white, light-dark blue, pink, and violet during the summer. This everlasting makes an interesting transition from delicate and innocent (Love-in-a-Mist) to horned and devilish (Devil-in-a-Bush) once the seed pods show up. It’s a real charmer in the garden and beautiful as an everlasting.

Nigella damascena may be an annual, but it re-seeds easily and once you plant it, you’ll have it every year. Plant the seeds directly into their bed as they have a taproot and resent transplanting.

5. Delphinium or larkspur (Delphinium spp., or Consolida ajacis)

This classic, English border beauty comes in both annual and perennial plants. It’s available in varieties that grow anywhere from 15″ all the way to 8 feet tall! Some types will bloom all at once during in early summer and some have smaller side stems that will bloom after the main stem finishes. In any case, the spikes should be cut back after the first bloom to encourage another show.

Pastel-colored spikes can have single, semi-double, or double flowers. They love nothing better than zones that have summer warmth (not burning, dry heat) and humidity. They’re at their best in soils that are cool and loaded with organic matter.

Everlastings offer a second chance to be enjoyed long after they no longer need a vase and water. So, leave some room in the garden for this charming flower category.

Everlastings in the sky photo by Yagan Kiley

Bells-of-Ireland photo by greengardenvienna

Strawflower photo by Dale Gillard

Globe Amaranth photo by orchidgalore

Love-in-a-Mist photo by lilli2de

Devil-in-a-bush photo by wit

Delphinium photo by MShades

Chris Mclaughlin shows us how to recognize when our plants are being stressed by heat, and also ways to prevent it…

High temperatures can be a challenge for plants and leaf tissue will show signs of heat stress, along with blossoms or fruit. Many will survive the dry, often blistering conditions, and unfortunately some won’t. But there are ways to tip the odds in your (and your plants’) favor.

Heather has some great ideas for protecting your lawn from the heat, there are a few things that would have never occurred to me.  I love Heather.  She’s so smart.

 

Photo credit: Shiny Things

Realize that sometimes the HOA is just going to have to take a chill pill, no one’s lawn looks good when there is a ban on watering and the healthiest lawns are not golf course perfect when water is scarce.  Many of these tips work when rainfall is plentiful, but they are crucial during a drought.

Heather also wrote this article on watering during a drought.  She explains about using the resources we have on hand, that would normally, literally, go down the drain!

 

Photo credit: Mike Baird

Those of us who live in the dry areas may be wondering how to water the garden without breaking the no sprinkler ordinances established by many municipalities.

If you are like me, and had no idea how to combat the heat, make sure you take a peek at these articles!  My bliss is learning from ladies I know and trust. I hope you found these tips as helpful as I did.

When the summer temperatures begin to crank up, we aren’t the only ones feeling the heat. High temperatures can be a challenge for plants and leaf tissue will show signs of heat stress, along with blossoms or fruit. Many will survive the dry, often blistering conditions, and unfortunately some won’t. But there are ways to tip the odds in your (and your plants’) favor.

We have some tips to help prepare your yard and garden for the dog days of summer before plants stress out. Be sure to watch for these signs of imminent heat stress in your flowers, vegetables, shrubs, and trees so you can offer them some extra water when they need it.

Recognize Plant Heat Stress

• Wilting foliage and flowers
• Sunburned foliage
• Leaves rapidly turning brown and falling off
• Vegetables drop prematurely
• Vegetables sunburned

Prevent Plant Heat Stress

The permanent wilting point (PWP) is the point in which there’s the minimal amount of moisture in the soil before the plant wilts. Ideally, you’d like to keep the plant hydrated above this point so that the plant doesn’t wilt at all — and thus, isn’t forced to recover. Of course, if the plant is too far past the PWP, it reaches the-point-of-no-return. Below are ways to keep the moisture in the soil and available to plant roots.

• Add compost (organic matter) to your garden beds whenever you can. Compost (among other great things) adds tilth to the soil and allows soil to easily retain moisture.

• Mulch! A few inches of mulch in your garden beds and landscape will go a long way in retaining moisture.

• Water (or set timers for) early morning hours. There’s less evaporation in the cool of the morning and it allows the foliage to dry before heading into the evening (which can encourage fungus).

• Water plants deeply. If you’re watering by hand, set the nozzle to a slow setting so the water has a chance to seep down into the soil and get to the bottom of the roots.

• Drip irrigation is always a good choice as it delivers water directly to plant roots without wasting a drop of water.

• If you haven’t discovered the water-holding gels that you add to the soil, this would be the right time to seek them out.

• If you’re having a heat wave and fear that you’ll lose permanent plants such as shrubs (as opposed to annuals which are easily replaced), consider using shade cloth draped over a frame over the plant.

If you find that you’re losing the battle because you live in an area that has temperatures over 100 degrees regularly, get down to your local nursery and pick up some heat-loving, drought-tolerant and native plants.

Photo of Black-Eyed Susans by Robert Couse-Baker

Photo of wilted tomato plant by nocivclia

Photo of drip irrigation by JobyOne

Photo by spotu

You wake up one sunny Saturday morning and you know that today is planting day. With visions of bursting blossoms in your head, you head down to your local nursery to pick out some plants for your flower border. It seems simple enough until you’re standing in front of 50 flats loaded with flowers in every color under the sun.

Photo by Christina

How do you decide which plants to choose? What colors work best together? Try using a color wheel. This wheel makes it easy to figure out flower color combinations that attract you before you ever pull out your wallet. How are colors placed on a color wheel and how do they work together? Well, here’s the painless, short version:

• Primary Colors: The wheel starts with the three primary colors; red, yellow, and blue. These colors are pure in that no other combination of colors can create them, yet every other color under the sun comes from some combination of these three.
• Secondary Colors: The colors green, orange, and purple are created my mixing combinations of the primary colors. Blue + yellow = green; red + yellow = orange; red+ blue = purple.
• Tertiary Colors: These colors are labeled with a hyphenated name because they’re created by mixing a primary color with a secondary color. Hence, yellow-orange; red-purple; blue-green; yellow-green; red-orange; blue-purple.

Colors that are opposite each other on the wheel are called complimentary colors. A good example is the Christmas colors – green and red. Orange would be the complimentary color to blue. Complimentary colors stand out by making each other brighter.

Photo by wwarby

Monochromatic colors are the same basic color but in different tones or shades. This works especially well in formal garden designs (classic) such as using white on whites. Often this garden will have not only white flowers such as peony and aquilegias, but silver leaves like Lamb’s ears incorporated, as well.

The colors that lie next to each other on the wheel are called analogous. When closely related colors are used together they create a harmonious, bright and cheerful effect in the garden. Flower color and their effect will be determined by what catches your eye naturally (personal preference), the style of your garden, as well as the color of your home.

Photo Credit: Shiny Things

How do you help your lawn make it through the summer when water is at a premium?

Realize that sometimes the HOA is just going to have to take a chill pill, no one’s lawn looks good when there is a ban on watering and the healthiest lawns are not golf course perfect when water is scarce. Many of these tips work when rainfall is plentiful, but the are crucial during a drought. Many healthy species of grass will go dormant during dry periods and bounce back, nearly overnight, after a substantial rainfall.

Raise the height of your lawnmower to the maximum height.

Raising the height of your mower’s deck allows the grass in the lawn to create its own shade, reducing the amount of water lost by evaporation. I know, it doesn’t sound like a blade of grass produces much shade, but your lawn is comprised of thousands of blades of grass, every little bit helps.

Mow only when necessary.

Mowing the lawn is different from giving yourself a haircut. Mowing removes a living part of your lawn, which stresses the plants. Try to push the time between cuts as long as you and your neighbors can stand it. Your grass will thank you.

Sharpen your lawnmower blade.

A sharper blade will reduce the damage done to each blade of grass. A less jagged cut means the plant will lose less water and mend the damage more quickly.

Aerate the soil.

Break out the cleats or find an old pair of spike heels and go for a walk on your lawn. Thick, unbroken turf can prevent water from sinking into the soil where it is most needed. Punching some holes will allow water, when that rainfall finally comes, to sink into the ground where it can give your thirsty grass the most benefit.

Lose the bag.

If your lawnmower has a mulching option, now is the time to use it. Not only will the grass clippings break down and provide nutrients for your lawn, but they will also help cover the soil and retain what little moisture there is. Mulching your lawn should happen after it has been aerated.

Photo Credit: Mike Baird

Save your grey water!

Grey water is water that would go down the drain but isn’t contaminated with human waste. Sources of this water include showers and tubs, sinks, and your clothes washer. Saving the grey water is a bit of a hassle, but well worth the effort. We’re all being told to put a little more exercise into our day, let’s look at this as just another opportunity.

If it takes a few moments for the water in your shower to reach a comfortable temperature, don’t let that water go to waste.

Use a five gallon bucket or a rubber tote to catch the water.

When saving water is absolutely crucial, you can remove the j or p-trap underneath bathroom sinks and place a bucket beneath to catch all the water that would normally be sent to the waste treatment plant. Most plants won’t mind a little bit of heavily diluted hand soap or toothpaste. (You don’t run the water while you brush your teeth, do you?)

Saving grey water from the clothes washer can be simple. Simply place the drain tube into a large bucket or container instead of the usual sink or drain. Please use common sense and caution and do not allow your washer to drain into a too small container. Cleaning up the overflow would be quite the headache.

Do not water your plants with grey water containing harsh detergents or bleach.

It is best to just capture the rinse water from the washing machine that would contain the least amount of soap.

When watering from a bucket or watering can, it’s best to water as close to the base of the plant as possible. Move the mulch out of the way and pour slowly so the soil has a chance to absorb the moisture. If you just dump the bucket over the plant, much of the water will splash out of the plant’s reach, wasting all of your effort.

Don’t forget to a thick layer of mulch will help prevent that hard-earned water from evaporating.

Photo by indiechick7

If you’re interested in adding more fresh vegetables to the family dinner menus, there’s no better time to start than the summer! These veggies are not only easy to grow, but simple to prepare for the barbecue grill. Here’s some tips on some of the easiest veggies to grow and the easiest ways to grill them.

Peppers – Delicious and nutritious are peppers’ claim to fame. Whether you enjoy the intense bite of the hot varieties or the sweetness of their mellow cousins, peppers are a mainstay in the garden as well as the grill. Peppers are another plant that’s best grown as transplants. They enjoy a position in full sun and should be places about 18″-24″ apart. Don’t space them too far apart, pepper plants like to “hold hands” as they grow.

Depending on the variety, you may need to use little cages or stakes for support. Hot pepper varieties mature anywhere form 70-85 days and the milder bells, 65-75 days. Don’t forget that even if you plant red or yellow bell peppers, they almost always start out green and change color as they mature. For something different, try the Tequila Sunrise, Sweet Banana, or chocolate beauty varieties.

Photo by SpecialKRB

Eggplant – Gardeners are most successful with eggplant when they start the seeds indoors about 2 months before the weather turns warm and they’re transplanted into their permanent bed. Or you could always purchase starts (baby plants) from your local nursery in the spring.

Eggplant needs full sun and a little room, so plant them 18″-24″ apart (rows 30″ -36″). They mature anywhere form 50-80 days — but give them a little test before harvesting to be sure. Press on the flesh with your thumb. The eggplant is ripe if the flesh springs back. Eggplant doesn’t store well, so for the best results, cook it right after you harvest. Try Black Bell, Easter Egg, or the fabulous heirloom, Rosa Bianca.

Onions – Onions are slow growers, so your best bet is to plant them as sets (baby bulbs) in full sun. When you can work the garden soil in spring, plant them 2″ deep and 2″-4″ apart (rows are 1′-1 1/2′ apart). If you’re interested in using scallions for the kitchen, harvest some of them in 1 – 1 1/2 months. If you’ve planted green onions, harvest them when they’re tops reach about 6″ tall. The bigger, bulb onions are mature anywhere from 100-120 days. Delicious varieties include Walla Walla, Red Baron and Sweet Spanish.  Borettana – Cipolini Italian onion is especially deliciously sweet when it’s roasted.

Zucchini – For the best flavor, this little summer squash should be harvested while it’s young. If you wait until it’s fully mature, it’ll have a tough texture (not good). Also, when a zucchini becomes fully mature on the vine, it sends a signal to the plant to stop producing (also not good). Plant 3-4 zucchini seeds on a small hill in full sun. When the seedlings are a few inches tall, thin them and keep only a couple that are the most healthy-looking. Try the Bush Baby, Tigress, and Black Beauty varieties.

Photo by Kirti Poddar

Watermelon – I’ll bet you didn’t see that coming as a suggestion for the grill. Watermelons are started indoors before the nice weather in colder regions, but are also started by seed outdoors in warmer areas. If you’re starting with seeds, plant three them 1″ deep into a mound of compost and soil.

When the seedlings start growing, thin out the weaklings and let the others grow. The secret to growing the sweetest watermelons is to water them steadily until they set fruit. After the fruit begins to grow, don’t water as often. In fact, water them just enough to keep their leaves from wilting. The sugar in the melons become diluted if the soil is saturated.

Watermelons are ready to harvest when the little tendril (next to the stem of that watermelon) becomes shriveled and turns brown. The rind should look dull as opposed to shiny and when you flick it with your middle finger, the sound will be a dull thud. For little, individual-sized melons try Sugar Baby.

Grill Garden Fresh Veggies

To prepare watermelon for the grill, first cut the watermelon into bite-sized wedges. Then brush some honey or olive oil onto both sides of each piece. Place it on the grill for about 2 minutes for each side — enough to become caramelized and get those wonderful grill marks. Some people prepare the watermelon by sprinkling the wedges with salt and then letting them stand sit and drain for about 1/2 hour before they add the oil or honey.

The rest of the vegetables can go from the garden to the grill within minutes of harvesting. After you’ve collected them from the garden, rinse them well with cool water.  Then cut them into wedges and place them on a large piece of foil. Drizzle olive oil over the top of them and add fresh herbs of your choice (those might come from your garden as well).

Form a foil pouch around the vegetables by gathering up the sides of the foil and fold the ends together. Place it onto the grill for  25-30 minutes — you may notice that the foil pops open at this point. Another option is to take veggie wedges and slide them onto kebob skewers to be roasted along with (or without) chicken or beef.

Photo by Dylan Parker

Kids and gardens are a natural partnership partly because it’s about the outdoors and partly because things are always changing in the garden. Gardening as a family let’s you create lasting memories and offers more opportunities to connect with one another. But gardening with your kids has some other advantages that you may not have considered.

Gardening provides natural lessons in math, science, observation, problem-solving, record keeping, responsibility, self-sufficiency, community, accomplishment, and pride. Here are some kid-friendly ideas to get you to play in the dirt as a family.

1. Let every family member in on the garden plans from the very beginning. Have your kids draw their own blueprint of what a garden should look like. Then be sure to incorporate an element or two from everyone’s designs or plant ideas. Let kids choose the plants — sounds rather unstructured, right? Good. Your kids get structure all day long form school, to homework, to bedtime routines. Allow them to wander through the nursery and buy those that captivate them.

Photo by Woodleywonderworks

2. Give each child a garden or plant of their own. If you have the room or maybe just one child, let them have their own little space in the yard to do with as they please. A container garden may make this easier with very young children. Help them build a scare-character. This is like the traditional scarecrow, but with a little more personality. Get creative and make this character into a cowboy, bride, jogger or a tin man like in the Wizard of Oz.

3. Plant a Kid-Friendly Garden. While you’re planning your flower or vegetable garden, don’t forget to add those plants that are particularly attractive to kids. Kids love plants that that are great to touch such as Lamb’s Ears (Stachys byzantina), and plants that smell good such as cinnamon basil or scented geraniums. Radishes are a kid favorite because they mature with amazing speed for a quick harvest. And you can’t miss with fresh strawberries in the garden. They also love amazing plants like the ones that stay very small or those that grow like giants.

Photo by Oddharmonic

Pumpkins fill the bill for many of these areas. For instance, “Atlantic Giant” are those grown to hit monstrous world records. If you plant the a large pumpkin variety, the nightly growth is amazing. So be sure to go out to the garden and measure them every day.

On the other end of the spectrum, “Baby Jack” and the white “Boo” are perfect for the wee ones to carry. Kids can scratch their name into the flesh of a pumpkins while it’s young and as the pumpkin matures, the skin heals a scar to create a uniquely personal pumpkin.

Sunflowers offer the same drastic differences in height. Giant sunflowers such as “Russian Mammoth” grow to a towering 12 feet tall and their leaves are as big as an adult’s head! Young children can get face-to-face with the short, fluffy variety “Teddy Bear”.

Photo by Leo-Seta

4. Plant a Theme Garden. This is one of the best ways to get kids into the garden and make it uniquely theirs. Help them plant a garden with a theme that they can relate to such as a chocolate or fairy garden. Garden theme possibilities are endless. Ask your kids for their ideas.

Chocolate garden ideas include plants that literally smell like chocolate such as chocolate cosmos (Cosmos atrosanguineus), chocolate mint (Mentha x piperita), and chocolate-scented geraniums (Pelargonium ‘Chocolate Joy’). You could also add plants that just have a chocolatey color like chocolate hollyhock (Alcea nigra) or chocolate dahlia (Dahlia ‘Black Beauty’).

Fairy garden plants could include Baby Tears (Soleirolia) and other tiny-leaved groundcovers, Fairy Wands (Dierama), and Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis). Don’t forget to create little doors at the base of trees for fairy homes.

5. Let kids harvest and cook home-grown produce. If your family has planted a vegetables or fruit, let the kids do the harvesting; it’s one of the greatest pleasures of the garden. Plus, harvesting is great fun. Let them dig for the potatoes (hidden treasure), pull up the carrots (it never fails to surprise), and pick the blueberries (if you trust they’ll come back with them).

In the kitchen, let them do the washing and help with preparation. Many a gardener has found that when kids help grow and harvest vegetables, they have a tendency to eat them, too. If your kids are quite young, they can help wash and snap the green beans as opposed to letting them actually cook.

A couple of last thoughts on gardening as a family:

• Definitely invest in a critter ID guide. Grown-ups and kids alike can name a bug or creature in the garden that fascinates them. Wildlife ID guides or cards will not only give a name to bug faces, but explain what that critter’s role is in the garden.
• Never underestimate the impact it makes on kids when you load up your extra garden vegetables and bring them to your local food bank.

Photo by Arkansas Shutterbug

• Last, don’t forget to let them dig, scoop, and fill things so that they can play in the mud, create cities, and bug forts. Imaginations are messy — do your best to encourage it.

We have lived in our current home for seven years and as we kick off our eighth summer, we’ve decided to give our neighbors a real treat and begin doing more than the absolute bare minimum in the yard work department. That sound? It’s not the wind, that’s their sighs of relief. While we’ve managed to stay on top of the mowing and the edging, there has been too much in the way of having and raising children and crazy work loads to manage more. I suppose that’s just the nature of being the young family in the retirement neighborhood; we simply can’t keep up with the Joneses at this point.

In the past, by the time we realized we ought to fertilize our lawn, it’d be well on its way to July and far too hot. Choosing the right time of year, monitoring the weather -so a heavy afternoon rain wouldn’t wash away the effort- and keeping the dog off the lawn always added up to more trouble than a green lawn was worth.

Enter Scotts Turf Builder and the process became easier.

Scotts Turf Builder can be applied at any time, in any season -up to four times a year for Southern lawns- to any grass and won’t burn the lawn if you apply incorrectly. The best part is that you don’t have to keep the kids and the dog off the lawn.

Why fertilize a lawn, it’s just grass after all?

Healthy grass develops a stronger root system that requires less water.

This is great for households that regularly water their lawns, they can water less often, resulting in significant savings. For people like my husband and I, it just means the grass won’t turn brown as quickly in August. Awesome.

Healthier grass grows more thickly, giving weeds less room to take root.

Well-nourished grass is more resilient to damage from heat and activity. I live in South Carolina with four kids and a dog, if there’s anything we lack, it’s certainly not heat or foot traffic.

Scotts Turf Builder doesn’t contain any fillers and is formulated to release nitrogen slowly so there’s no risk of burning -read that killing- your lawn by applying too heavily. It was incredibly easy, to apply.

I fertilized the yard last Sunday with Scotts Turf Builder and it appears, despite my inexperience to be doing just fine. There’s no burning from over application or uneven striping. The true test will come as we head into summer and drier conditions

To get the most out of Scotts Turf Builder, it should be applied every 6 – 8 weeks up to four times a year. Don’t worry, you don’t actually have to remember, Scotts has put together an email reminder to tell you when its time to treat your yard again.

This post was sponsored by Scotts and One2One Network.

Photo credit: Victoria Peckham

Photo By: Martyn E. Jones

I love working in the garden,  it’s my chill time.  During the spring I always sow lots of veggie seeds, so I was really excited when I saw Angela’s post about growing pole beans.  It’s a great resource for what to expect during the entire growing season and how awesome is it that they are pretty too!?

In the summer, check your mulch. A good layer of mulch can help preserve water and keep the pole beans evenly moist throughout the hottest part of the growing season. Apply a natural fertilizer if you want, such as kelp or compost tea. Check the vines often to make sure your beans don’t get too ripe…

I had no idea you should add more mulch in the summer!  I love learning from brilliant women.